
Welcome to Part Two of my guide to men’s coats. In Part One—The Top 10 Most Popular Coats Guide—I introduced key outerwear styles, from timeless overcoats to versatile puffers. Now, in this follow-up, I’ll help you go one step further: choosing the perfect coat for your body shape.
Finding the right coat doesn’t need to be complicated. This blog will simplify the process, offering advice to ensure your coat fits well, flatters your build, and works for both function and style. Whether you’re tall, broad, or lean, this guide takes the guesswork out of coat shopping, helping you save time and avoid costly mistakes.
Ready to stop wasting time on coats that don’t suit you? Explore this guide for expert tips tailored to your build. For a personalised approach, book a consultation through my website, and let’s refine your winter wardrobe together!
When the temperature drops, your winter coat becomes one of the most important pieces in your wardrobe. Yet many men end up with coats that are purely chosen for practicality, missing out on style altogether.
The good news? It’s possible to find a coat that is warm, practical, and stylish—one that flatters your body shape and works for your lifestyle. Whether you’re heading to the office, walking the dog, or heading out for a weekend coffee, this guide will help you choose a coat that keeps you looking sharp and feeling confident.
What’s Your Body Shape?
It’s essential to know your body shape before shopping for your winter coat. Why? Because this will help you find styles that enhance your proportions, rather than working against them. You’ll save time from looking at unsuitable clothes and also save money from investing in coats that don’t fit and flatter your body shape.
Why does knowing your body shape matter when buying clothes?
I’ve written a blog identifying the 5 main body shapes and why this knowledge is a game changer. If you haven’t read it, here’s a heads up on body shape basics.
• Rectangle: Shoulders, waist, and hips are roughly the same width.
• Oval: Broader midsection with a rounded torso.
• Inverted Triangle: Broad shoulders tapering to a slimmer waist and hips.
• Triangle: Wider hips compared to shoulders.
• Trapezoid: Balanced proportions, with broad shoulders and chest tapering slightly to the waist.
Each body shape has specific coat styles that work for it—and some that should be avoided. Let’s break it down.
Rectangle Shape
Straight silhouette with shoulders, waist, and hips aligned.
Smart Option: Tailored Overcoat
A tailored overcoat adds structure and definition to your straight silhouette. Look for styles with structured shoulders and subtle tapering at the waist to add shape.
• Fabric & Colours: Wool or wool-blend fabrics in classic shades like navy, charcoal, or camel are best. Patterns like subtle checks or herringbone can also create depth.
• Why It Works: Adds definition to the shoulders and creates the illusion of a more contoured shape.
Style tip:
Avoid This: Boxy overcoats or anything too loose-fitting, as they emphasise the straightness of your frame.
Casual Option: Field Jacket
Field jackets create a rugged, masculine look while cinching the waist for added shape.
• Fabric & Colours: Opt for waxed cotton or water-resistant materials in earthy tones like khaki or olive.
• Why It Works: Adjustable waist detailing creates structure, breaking up the straightness of your torso.
Style tip:
Avoid This: Jackets without waist detailing or bulky designs that can make you look shapeless.
Oval Shape
Broader midsection with a rounded torso.
Smart Option: Single-Breasted Overcoat
Single-breasted overcoats are a great option for oval shapes, as they create clean vertical lines that elongate your silhouette.
• Fabric & Colours: Wool or wool-cashmere blends in darker shades like navy, black, or charcoal work best.
• Why It Works: The vertical lines help streamline your torso, while minimal detailing avoids drawing attention to the midsection.
Style tip:Avoid This: Double-breasted coats or anything with bulky lapels, as they add width to your shape.
Casual Option: Utility Jacket
Utility jackets are lightweight and practical, with minimal bulk to avoid adding width.
• Fabric & Colours: Lightweight technical fabrics in neutral shades like black, navy, or olive are ideal.
• Why It Works: Simple, structured designs with minimal embellishments help streamline your look.
Style tip: Avoid This: Puffy jackets or designs with excessive pockets, which can add unnecessary volume.
Inverted Triangle Shape
Broad shoulders tapering to a slimmer waist and hips.
Smart Option: Double-Breasted Overcoat
A double-breasted coat adds balance to your silhouette by filling out your lower body and creating symmetry with your broad shoulders.
• Fabric & Colours: Wool or wool-cashmere blends in bold, dark colours like navy or black.
• Why It Works: The wide lapels and additional fabric around the chest help balance your upper body.
Style tip: Avoid This: Skinny lapels or very slim-fitting coats, which can overemphasise your broad shoulders.
Casual Option: Harrington Jacket
Harrington jackets are lightweight and versatile, with ribbed hems that add shape to your waist.
• Fabric & Colours: Cotton or wool-blend fabrics in muted tones like navy or olive.
• Why It Works: The fitted hem draws attention to your waist, balancing your proportions.
Style tip: Avoid This: Boxy jackets or oversized fits, as they make your shoulders appear even broader.
Triangle Shape
Wider hips compared to shoulders.
Smart Option: Single-Breasted Chesterfield Coat
A single-breasted Chesterfield coat with structured shoulders adds definition to your upper body, balancing out your proportions.
• Fabric & Colours: Wool or cashmere in dark, solid colours like navy or grey to slim the hips.
• Why It Works: Structured shoulders and minimal waist shaping draw attention upwards, away from your hips.
Avoid This: Coats with flared or oversized bottoms, as they add bulk to your lower half.
Casual Option: Peacoat
A double-breasted peacoat with wide lapels broadens your shoulders and balances your frame.
• Fabric & Colours: Wool or wool-blends in navy or dark grey.
• Why It Works: The shorter length and wide lapels help balance the width of your hips.
Style tips: Avoid This: Long coats that flare below the waist, as they accentuate your hips.
Trapezoid Shape
Broad shoulders and chest tapering slightly to the waist.
Smart Option: Overcoat or Trench Coat
Almost any smart coat works well for this balanced shape, but overcoats and trench coats highlight your proportions best.
• Fabric & Colours: Wool or cotton blends in camel, navy, or black for versatility.
• Why It Works: These coats enhance your natural proportions without overemphasising any particular area.
Avoid This: Anything overly loose or boxy, as it hides your balanced frame.
Find the Right Winter Coat for Your Shape and Style
A winter coat should do more than keep you warm—it should suit your body shape, lifestyle, and personal style. Whether you’re a rectangle, oval, inverted triangle, triangle, or trapezoid, there’s a perfect coat for you.
• Rectangle: Choose structured overcoats or field jackets to add shape to your frame.
• Oval: Look for single-breasted coats with clean lines to streamline your silhouette.
• Inverted Triangle: Balance your broad shoulders with double-breasted overcoats or fitted Harrington jackets.
• Triangle: Add definition to your upper body with Chesterfield coats or peacoats.
• Trapezoid: Highlight your balanced proportions with tailored overcoats or classic trenches.
Remember to avoid styles that exaggerate your proportions, and invest in quality fabrics like wool, cashmere, or water-proof materials for durability and comfort.
Finding the perfect winter coat doesn’t have to be overwhelming. If you’re unsure where to start or want expert advice tailored to your needs, I can help. As a personal menswear stylist, I specialise in helping busy men like you build wardrobes that are stylish, practical, and confidence-boosting.
Book a consultation today, and I’ll help you find a winter coat—and wardrobe—that works perfectly for you.